This week, Professor Heather Widdows continues her discussion of contemporary conceptions of beauty and considers the shared nature of such ideals.
In my post last week I said a little
about Perfect Me! the book I'm currently working on. I said that beauty, appearance, and body image are not
trivial issues, but ones that matter. This of course is a different issue from
whether it should matter – currently
it does and does for most people, much of the time. For some the ideal of
‘being perfect’ has become all encompassing. For some this ideal is a standard
against which individuals judge their own and other’s progress, success and
failure. People feel ‘happy’ or that they are ‘successful’ if they have
attained some aspect of their ideal (reached their goal weight, erased their
wrinkles or firmed their thighs). This view, which connects being physically
perfect (having the best body) with ‘the self’, is a common one. We are often
told once we move towards our ‘perfect self’ we will be able to be our true selves
(‘the best you’). The assumption is ubiquitous in the language of value which
surrounds talk of beauty: You should live up to the ideal and strive to be more
perfect because ‘you’re worth it’, ‘you owe it to yourself’; if you don’t
strive for perfection and ‘let yourself go’ then, presumably ‘you’re not worth
it’. In this dominant ideal of ‘perfect me’ beauty, happiness and success begin
to merge. The more perfect you are the more you will succeed: you’ll get a
better job (‘look the part’, ‘dress for the job you want not the one you
have’); better relationship (‘if I’m thinner, prettier, sexier s/he’ll love me
more’); and better life in general (‘if I was ten pounds lighter, I’d be
happier’). In these ways the beauty ideal is thought to provide rewards to the
successful devotee – rewards of jobs, relationships, respect, love and
happiness. It gives standards – to aspire to, and to judge ourselves and others
by.
The shared nature of the ideal is
crucial. The fact that it is shared matters.
For a start it makes problematic claims that beautifying – in the form of
routine beauty regimes or interventions (such as surgery) – is individual. You
can’t choose your own beauty ideal, you can only choose to conform to it, to
embody it or to reject it. If you reject it – as some do – then you are
standing outside the norm and will be judged accordingly. (Remember the
politicians, even though beauty isn't necessary for a politician as you might think it is for an actor or a
singer, they are judged on appearance.) Standing outside the ideal isn't easy
for most people – as the barefaced selfies show – most women wear make-up at
least some of the time in most walks of life, and employers and others expect
it. Gradually what is ‘normal’ – what is required to attain minimum standards
of acceptable appearance – has extended. Not very long ago make-up and hair dye
was unacceptable for most women (for respectable women). I'm not defending this
division of types of women or these norms – but rather just pointing out that
what is required by the beauty ideal to be ‘normal’ is changing and expanding.
Body hair is a particularly good example of this – and very current if we think
of the column inches written only a few weeks ago when Madonna showed underarm
hair. It is now the ‘norm’ to be increasingly hairless. In public – at the
beach/pool/on a night out – most women think ‘de-fluffing’ is ‘routine’, like
washing or teeth-cleaning. But it’s not so long ago (days I remember from when
I was at University) when underarm hair was normal, even attractive. And the
changes in norms with regard to pubic hair are striking in the last 20 years.
In the future what will be required? The de-fuzzing of all body hair (except on
the head where the trend is the opposite and in some groups hair extensions are
almost a requirement)?
These are the types of issues I will
spend the next two years teasing out and writing about – as well as discussing
at the Hay Festival.
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